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Wave refraction occurs when a portion of the waves base (which is 1/2 the wave l

ID: 108831 • Letter: W

Question

Wave refraction occurs when a portion of the waves base (which is 1/2 the wave length) touches the ocean bottom , causing that portion of the wave to slow down, while the rest of the wave continues at it's deep-water speed. This causes the wave to "wrap" or conform to the shape of coastline. A prime example is a point break, where waves, such as Rincon Beach, where waves end up almost perpendicular to their original direction.

True

False

Wave reflection occurs when a portion of the waves base (which is 1/2 the wave length) touches the ocean bottom , causing that portion of the wave to slow down, while the rest of the wave continues at it's deep-water speed. This causes the wave to "wrap" or conform to the shape of coastline. A prime example is a point break, where waves, such as Rincon Beach, where waves end up almost perpendicular to their original direction.

True

False

Explanation / Answer

1. REFRACTION: When refraction occurs a portion of the wave base touches the ocean bottom causing that portion of the wave to slow down.

Answer: TRUE

Explanation: The speed of a wave is dependent upon the properties of medium through which the waves travel. Water waves travel fastest when the medium is DEEPEST. Hence if a water wave is passing from deep water into shallow water, it will obviously SLOW DOWN.

2. REFLECTION: When reflection occurs a portion of wave base touches the ocean bottom causing the portion to slow down.

Answer: FALSE

Explanation: The straight waves have alternate crests and troughs, these waves travel until they encounter an OBSTACLE and upon reaching the obstacle these waves bounce off the water and travel in a DIFFERENT direction.