3;At what water depth and distance from shore will the waves break? What type of

Question

3;At what water depth and distance from shore will the waves break? What type of breakers would you expect? What will be the breaker height?

I know to find breaking wave height you use Hb/hb=0.78 (Hb being breaking wave height, hb being mean water depth at the point of breaking. The original formula (Hb=yhb) as y=0.78. But i am not sure what values are to be filled in and where, or how to find water depth and distance from shore where the waves will break?

I am writing for your advice concerning the erosion of our beach during Sandy. Our beach is 3000 feet long and seems to be slowly eroding at an average rate of about one-half foot per year. A few years ago we were forced to build a revetment in front ofour clubhouse and to relocate our bathing beach from in front of the clubhouse to a place further east. At the east end of our beach front property there is a groin that was constructed by NY State. In addition to the general beach erosion, there are strong rip currents at the bathing beach, which pose a threat to swimmers Here are our questions A. Do you think our erosion problem (the 0.5 feet per year is due to (a) sea level rise, (b) the presence of the revetment, or (c) the groin? What causes rip currents? Could the revetment and/or the groin be causing the rip currents at the bathing beach? Our beach was usually about 225 feet wide but after Sandy it was over 350 feet wide and a large sand bar could be seen offshore. Now it seems to have formed a long trough or gutter filled with sea water behind a sand bar at the shore. Can you explain the changes that happened during and after Sandy? We have asked the S. Army Corps of Engineers for advice. Because this is private property, they refused to offer an opinion, but they did send us the following information. Perhaps it is useful to you Beach sand grain si 0.5 mm (Phi size- 1) Usual Deep-water wave height- 0.6 m Usual Deep-water wave length 60 m Usual Wave period 8.2 sec Rate of sea level rise 3 mm/yr Closure depth 20 m The longshore transport of sand is about 26,200 yds/yr to the west but sand is being trapped east of the groin at a rate of 1500 yd3/yr

Explanation / Answer

A.

Answer: a) Sea level rise

Explanation: Sea level rise increases and then decreases the water in the sea. The increasing water carries sediments in the shoreline into the shelf of the sea. This process is called erosion in the sea.

B.

Answer: Groin

Explanation: Groins are the one of the reasons for the rip currents. Groins are the barriers, which help for the development of rip currents.

C.

The sea level rise and fall carries sediments to the offshore. Most of the sea level fall deposits sediments in the offshore. Over a long time, the sudden sea level rise carries sediments and deposits at the offshore, which results increasing bed thickness of the offshore due to the extra sandy deposition.

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