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Please complete the following in 4+ complete sentences! Contrast the characteris

ID: 77501 • Letter: P

Question

Please complete the following in 4+ complete sentences!
Contrast the characteristics of ocean waves in deep water with waves in shallow water. Especially note how wavelength and wave height change as a wave comes onshore. Please complete the following in 4+ complete sentences!
Contrast the characteristics of ocean waves in deep water with waves in shallow water. Especially note how wavelength and wave height change as a wave comes onshore. Please complete the following in 4+ complete sentences!
Contrast the characteristics of ocean waves in deep water with waves in shallow water. Especially note how wavelength and wave height change as a wave comes onshore.

Explanation / Answer

Standing on a beach and watching the waves roll in and break, one might guess that water is moving bodily towards the shore. But no water is piling up on the beach. Watching a piece of floating debris beyond the breakers, we can see it move towards the shore on the crest of a wave, and move the same distance backward with the trough of the wave. The debris moves in a roughly circular path perpendicular to the water

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